CABINETS 101
CABINET BOX CONSTRUCTION
Like sorting lights from darks, all cabinetry falls into two basic categories:
Framed construction Frameless construction
In framed cabinetry, wood joinery holds the parts together. This American-style cabinet attaches a 1 ½” wide x ¾” thick frame to the front of the cabinet “box.” Horizontal rails and vertical stiles secure the door to the box, as hinges attach to the door and frame.
In frameless cabinetry, thicker side panels keep the cabinet rigid without the use of a front frame. Special hardware fittings do both jobs; hinges attach to the door and side or end panels. Due to the lack of face frame, the cabinet doors lie flush with each other, forming a tight reveal of 1/8” or less. This clean style emphasizes the door and is often referred to as European style.
Because no rails or stiles block the way, frameless cabinets offer slightly easier access to their interiors. Expect up to 10 percent more interior space. Also, many manufacturers eliminate the center stile in double doors, which provides easier accessibility to platters and oversize bowls and dishes.
CABINET BOX MATERIAL
You might be surprised to learn that solid wood rarely forms the cabinet box. It’s more often used in face frames and doors than in the larger side panel parts. That’s because it tends to warp—a special concern in the kitchen where the moisture level changes frequently. But in the doors, using multiple strips of lumber in a variety of sizes can reduce the warp factor. A “floating” panel might also be used. The panel floats because instead of being glued to the doorframe, its edges sit between wooden grooves, allowing the wood to move more freely with changes in the kitchen’s humidity.
Box materials typically contain wood chips, other wood by-products, and synthetic additives to make them especially strong and warp resistant.
Your options for box material include:
Plywood, Engineered Wood & Medium-density fiberboard
All have solid reputations for durability and screw-holding power. Medium-density fiberboard has gained a following for its ability to be formed into door and drawer heads and other decorative features. Engineered Wood offers a stronger alternative than particleboard, which you’ll pay the least for.
Often the door and box will be constructed of different materials. A cabinet door might be solid maple and the cabinet box plywood covered with a maple veneer. The same finish would be applied to both, unifying the look. Or you may decide you want different tones on the door and the sides to add contrast.
You’ll want to make sure you know if the finish you like requires a certain base material, and you’ll want to check out examples of your manufacturer’s work. Beware of staples! Staples will pull apart. You want cabinets with thick panels that have been corner blocked and glued or fastened with screws.
CABINET BOX DIMENSIONS
According to the National Kitchen & Bath Association, standard cabinet dimensions are as follows:
Base cabinets, which are set on the floor, are 24” deep and 34 ½” high, including a 4 ½” toe-kick.
Wall cabinets, which are affixed to the wall with screws, are 12” deep. Standard height is 30”, but other common heights include 24”, 33”, 36 and 42”.
Tall pantry or utility cabinets are generally 84” or 96” high.
Specialty cabinets include 18” to fit over the range and 12”-15” to fit over the refrigerator.
Note: Be sure to check the size of your dinnerware in a standard cabinet. If you’ve chosen modern, oversized plates that measure more than 12” across, you may find yourself unable to close your wall cabinets’ doors. Specialty or custom cabinets may be needed.
CABINET DOOR TYPE
How the cabinet door fits over the cabinet box determines its basic type.
Your options for door type include:
Full overlay, Partial overlay, Inset & Lipped
Full overlay doors have less than one-eighth of an inch between them—in effect, they fully lay over the cabinet. Frameless cabinets always have full overlay doors but some framed cabinets have them as well. You can tell for sure whether a cabinet is framed or frameless by opening a door and checking for rails and stiles.
Partial overlay doors somewhat conceal the frame; there is usually a ½” to 1” space between closed doors, allowing you to see much of the face frame. This choice could slightly reduce your cabinetry’s total cost: Because the doors are smaller, less material is used.
Inset doors sit within the rails and stiles and lay flush with the front edges of the cabinet box. Truly inset doors are only available with a framed construction, but designers can achieve the same look using vertical pilasters on frameless cabinets. Note that wood’s expansion and contraction due to humidity can cause rubbing between the door and stiles.
Lipped doors are routed with a slight wooden groove to fit over the face frame.
CABINET DOOR STYLE
Besides door type, you’ll want to consider different door shapes. One cabinet manufacturer may offer hundreds of door styles in an endless array of finishes.
DRAWER CONSTRUCTION
The drawers will likely be made of solid wood or MDF; have framed or flat slab fronts; and be held together with dovetail, mortise-and-tenon, or butt joints.
Dovetail Mortise-and-Tenon Butt joint
Glue holds the parts together, though staples or brads are typically used to hold the joints together until the glue has cured. Dovetail joints provide the most strength.
SLIDES
Your options for drawer slides include:
Full extension, Ball bearing, Track and roller, Wood
Self closing
Full-extension slides attach to the bottom or the sides of the drawer and provide full access to the drawer interior. Their ball-bearing system adds stability and strength. Stronger versions can be used to store heavier items, such as files or cookware.
Ball-bearing slides attach to the bottom of the drawer sides. Usually standard on high-end cabinets, they offer smooth, quiet operation. Their concealed runners mounted to the bottom of the drawer don’t get as dirty as those mounted on the side. They allow for a wider drawer box with a more usable interior space.
Track-and-roller slides attach to the drawer sides. Their epoxy-coated steel tracks and nylon rollers offer quiet operation but are less stable than ball-bearing ones.
Wooden slides work as slots in the drawer sides or bottoms and move the drawer along a wood runner. This option has fallen out of favor because the drawers tend to stick as the wood expands and contracts.
STOCK
Formerly known as “bare bones” cabinetry, choosing stock cabinets for your home no longer means you’re getting the bare minimum. While prices largely remain tailored for the budget-conscious, stock manufacturers are now offering luxurious options previously exclusive to custom.
The Basics
Stock cabinets are constructed prior to purchase; because the manufacturer is not building to your unique specifications, all sizes meet industry standards. Stock cabinetry widths begin at 9 inches and increase in 3” increments to 48” (the largest standard stock size available). Some stock companies also offer half-sized cabinets (13 ½”, 19 ½”, etc.). To accommodate sizes outside of the 3-inch increments, filler strips close any gaps between the cabinet and the wall or an appliance.
Expect limited wood species, door styles and finish selections. However, to counteract the lack of available modifications, the woods, door styles, and finishes that manufacturers choose tend to be the most popular; don’t think that purchasing stock means settling for an outdated cabinet!
Check out what you’re getting beyond the cabinet. The manufacturer should offer a good warranty that can be extended or transferred to the end-user if you plan to sell. Also, make sure that touch-up and repair materials accompany your shipment or can be easily ordered.
Stored in the manufacturer’s warehouse, stock cabinets are usually available within one week of being ordered.
Pros:
Cons:
SEMI-CUSTOM
Flexibility is the name of the game when it comes to semi-custom cabinets. Partly stock, partly custom, you may not be able to let your imagination run wild, but you can certainly take it out for a spin. Expect all of the offerings of stock cabinetry with less of the limitations.
The Basics
A step up from stock, semi-custom cabinets also typically come in 3” increments but have the ability to incorporate certain custom aspects, such as increased and reduced depths.
Semi-custom cabinets have greater door, finish, and wood selections than stock.
Construction begins when order is finalized, so modifications can be made as the cabinets are somewhat built to suit. Budget at least one month for delivery into your schedule.
Pros:
Cons:
CUSTOM
Custom cabinets are restricted by only one thing—your wallet!
Basics
Within the limits of sound construction, the sky’s the limit when it comes to the design and style possibilities of custom cabinetry.
There tend to be two kinds of custom cabinets: those made by a custom manufacturer (such as Omega) and those made by a local “custom” woodworking shop. Local cabinetmakers produce the box, frame, and drawers in their shop. They will either fabricate the doors or order them from a company.
Another point to consider when going with a local producer is the finish. Make sure to inquire about the finish process. To properly protect the doors, your cabinet’s finish should include a moisture resistant sealant, catalytic conversion varnish, and baked on coats.
Custom manufacturers can make unfitted pieces, provide almost any finish color or door style, and fashion nearly any size cabinet you want. If you have a color you want to match, a custom cabinet shop can generate an exact equivalent.
Custom is the most flexible and most expensive of the types of cabinetry and typically takes at least 6-10 weeks to deliver.
Manufactured Custom Cabinets
Pros:
Cons:
Local Custom Cabinets
Pros:
Cons:
CONSTRUCTION QUALITY
A coveted fashion label (and hefty price tag) generally implies high quality. But regardless of the designer, it’s important to check that the hems are firm and the material is a notch above synthetic polyester. Cabinets work the same way. When it comes to quality, check out cabinet components that generally go unnoticed.
Ask about the:
Drawer construction: Dovetail drawers will provide the most strength
Finishing system: To properly protect the doors, your cabinet’s finish should include a moisture resistant sealant, catalytic conversion varnish, and baked on coats.
Composition of the doors
According to the Hardwood Manufacturers Association, be sure to look for the following:
Is there evidence of cracking of wood or delamination?
Are corners square with no perceptible joint separation?
Are exposed surfaces smoothly rounded with no blemishes?
Do doors align when closed?
Are hardware and handles fastened securely and aligned properly?
Are all edges smooth?
Are screws, nails and fasteners properly concealed?
Do doors and drawers open smoothly and quietly?
Are the drawers removable?
Do the cabinets have a seal certifying they have passed national standard tests ranging from impact resistance and hinge durability to the ability to withstand substances like detergents, vinegar and oil?
Is the finish smooth with no drips and bubbles?
WARRANTIES
Your cabinet doors swing open like a dream today—but what about tomorrow? Safeguard your investment by choosing a manufacturer that offers a solid warranty.
You’ll be ahead of the game if you know the terms of the following typical warranties. Most manufacturers offer different warranties for the cabinetry and the drawer suspension system and hinges:
Limited Lifetime
Ensures that the drawer, drawer guides and hinges will be free from defects in material and workmanship after normal use, for as long as the original purchaser owns the home.
Five-Year Limited
Cabinets will be free in defects from material and workmanship under normal use to the original consumer for a period of five years from the date of purchase.
General
If the cabinetry fails during the predetermined warranty period due to normal use, the manufacturer will repair the defect or provide replacement parts.
Limitations may still apply. Many manufacturers stipulate that the warranty only extends to single-family, non-rental homes and does not cover damage from misuse, abuse, neglect, improper storage, defects caused by installation/storage/transportation, moisture and heat.
If defects occur, the manufacturer has the option to either repair or replace the defective material or component at its discretion. The warranty only covers parts and materials, not the cost of installation or removal.
Natural factors will alter the cabinets over time; the manufacturer is not responsible for exact color matching.
Check to see if the warranty extends to the end-user: this could be valuable if you’re planning on selling you home in the near future.
Be sure to keep all warranty information in one folder in a safe place. Understand the terms of your warranty clearly: some warranties go into effect on the day the cabinets were purchased; others use delivery and installation as starting points. Also check to see if purchasing an extended warranty is an option.
KCMA
The Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA) sponsors the nationally-recognized testing program for cabinets, ANSI/KCMA A161.1, Performance & Construction Standard for Kitchen & Vanity Cabinets. That’s a mouthful, but knowing what it stands for can definitely pay off.
According to the KCMA, “Cabinets that comply and bear the KCMA certification seal are recognized in the marketplace as a quality product able to perform after a rigorous battery of tests simulating years of typical household use.”
The KCMA tests create, in accelerated form, the cumulative effects of years of normal kitchen conditions. When you purchase a cabinet with the KCMA seal, know that your cabinets have passed the following tests:
Doors are properly aligned and close without excessive binding or looseness.
All wood parts were dried to a moisture content of 10 percent or less at the time of fabrication.
Cabinets are suitable for use in kitchens and bathrooms, withstanding exposure to grease, solvents, water, detergent and steam.
Mounted wall cabinets were gradually loaded to 500 pounds without visible signs of failure in the cabinet or the mounting system.
All shelves and bottoms were loaded at 15 pounds per sq. ft. and maintained for seven days to check for joint separation and bending.
Drawers were loaded at 15 pounds per sq. ft. and opened and closed 25,000 times to ensure proper drawer assembly and operation.
To ensure tight and proper connection of doors, door-holding devices and hinges, doors are opened and closed through a full 90-degree swing 25,000 times.
The cabinet door has been placed in a hotbox at 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 70 percent relative humidity for 24 hours to test the finish for discoloration, blistering and film failures.
To ensure kitchen and bath durability, exposed surfaces were subjected to vinegar, lemon, orange and grape juices, ketchup, coffee, olive oil and 100-proof alcohol for 24 hours (and mustard for one hour). The finish did not show appreciable discoloration or stain that would not disperse with ordinary polishing.
Environmental Stewardship
Improve your home. Help protect the environment. The KCMA Environmental Stewardship Program (ESP) lets you do both.
Wherever you turn these days, you will find products that aim to be “green.” With so many environmental programs out there, it can be difficult to make sense of them all. ESP holds the cabinet industry to higher standards than other environmental programs because of its holistic approach to manufacturing, examining the process from growth and harvesting of raw materials to manufacturing the end product.
Whenever you buy kitchen, bathroom, and other cabinets with KCMA’s ESP seal, you can be assured that you’re doing your part to protect the environment.
In 2006, KCMA created ESP to help cabinet manufacturers demonstrate their commitment to environmental sustainability and help consumers easily identify environmentally friendly products. After meeting certification requirements in the areas of air quality, product and process resource management, environmental stewardship, and community relations, cabinet manufacturers can display the ESP seal on their products. The ESP seal helps you identify cabinets and cabinet manufacturers who are committed to protecting the environment. More than 130 cabinet manufacturers and brands already have earned ESP certification and more are on their way to completing the review process.
When you buy ESP certified cabinets you can be confident you are making the right choice for the environment and your family. You can take comfort in the fact that the manufacturer of your cabinets is committed to environmental responsibility. By purchasing ESP certified cabinets you are doing your part to support the environment and build an environmentally-friendly home.
RESOURCES
Cabinets.com – informational website
www.cabinets.com
National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA)
www.nkba.com
Environmental Stewardship Program
www.greencabinetsource.org
Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA)
www.kcma.org
MasterBrand Cabinets
www.masterbrand.com
TrueSource Cabinets
www.truesourcecabinets.com
Like sorting lights from darks, all cabinetry falls into two basic categories:
Framed construction Frameless construction
In framed cabinetry, wood joinery holds the parts together. This American-style cabinet attaches a 1 ½” wide x ¾” thick frame to the front of the cabinet “box.” Horizontal rails and vertical stiles secure the door to the box, as hinges attach to the door and frame.
In frameless cabinetry, thicker side panels keep the cabinet rigid without the use of a front frame. Special hardware fittings do both jobs; hinges attach to the door and side or end panels. Due to the lack of face frame, the cabinet doors lie flush with each other, forming a tight reveal of 1/8” or less. This clean style emphasizes the door and is often referred to as European style.
Because no rails or stiles block the way, frameless cabinets offer slightly easier access to their interiors. Expect up to 10 percent more interior space. Also, many manufacturers eliminate the center stile in double doors, which provides easier accessibility to platters and oversize bowls and dishes.
CABINET BOX MATERIAL
You might be surprised to learn that solid wood rarely forms the cabinet box. It’s more often used in face frames and doors than in the larger side panel parts. That’s because it tends to warp—a special concern in the kitchen where the moisture level changes frequently. But in the doors, using multiple strips of lumber in a variety of sizes can reduce the warp factor. A “floating” panel might also be used. The panel floats because instead of being glued to the doorframe, its edges sit between wooden grooves, allowing the wood to move more freely with changes in the kitchen’s humidity.
Box materials typically contain wood chips, other wood by-products, and synthetic additives to make them especially strong and warp resistant.
Your options for box material include:
Plywood, Engineered Wood & Medium-density fiberboard
All have solid reputations for durability and screw-holding power. Medium-density fiberboard has gained a following for its ability to be formed into door and drawer heads and other decorative features. Engineered Wood offers a stronger alternative than particleboard, which you’ll pay the least for.
Often the door and box will be constructed of different materials. A cabinet door might be solid maple and the cabinet box plywood covered with a maple veneer. The same finish would be applied to both, unifying the look. Or you may decide you want different tones on the door and the sides to add contrast.
You’ll want to make sure you know if the finish you like requires a certain base material, and you’ll want to check out examples of your manufacturer’s work. Beware of staples! Staples will pull apart. You want cabinets with thick panels that have been corner blocked and glued or fastened with screws.
CABINET BOX DIMENSIONS
According to the National Kitchen & Bath Association, standard cabinet dimensions are as follows:
Base cabinets, which are set on the floor, are 24” deep and 34 ½” high, including a 4 ½” toe-kick.
Wall cabinets, which are affixed to the wall with screws, are 12” deep. Standard height is 30”, but other common heights include 24”, 33”, 36 and 42”.
Tall pantry or utility cabinets are generally 84” or 96” high.
Specialty cabinets include 18” to fit over the range and 12”-15” to fit over the refrigerator.
Note: Be sure to check the size of your dinnerware in a standard cabinet. If you’ve chosen modern, oversized plates that measure more than 12” across, you may find yourself unable to close your wall cabinets’ doors. Specialty or custom cabinets may be needed.
CABINET DOOR TYPE
How the cabinet door fits over the cabinet box determines its basic type.
Your options for door type include:
Full overlay, Partial overlay, Inset & Lipped
Full overlay doors have less than one-eighth of an inch between them—in effect, they fully lay over the cabinet. Frameless cabinets always have full overlay doors but some framed cabinets have them as well. You can tell for sure whether a cabinet is framed or frameless by opening a door and checking for rails and stiles.
Partial overlay doors somewhat conceal the frame; there is usually a ½” to 1” space between closed doors, allowing you to see much of the face frame. This choice could slightly reduce your cabinetry’s total cost: Because the doors are smaller, less material is used.
Inset doors sit within the rails and stiles and lay flush with the front edges of the cabinet box. Truly inset doors are only available with a framed construction, but designers can achieve the same look using vertical pilasters on frameless cabinets. Note that wood’s expansion and contraction due to humidity can cause rubbing between the door and stiles.
Lipped doors are routed with a slight wooden groove to fit over the face frame.
CABINET DOOR STYLE
Besides door type, you’ll want to consider different door shapes. One cabinet manufacturer may offer hundreds of door styles in an endless array of finishes.
DRAWER CONSTRUCTION
The drawers will likely be made of solid wood or MDF; have framed or flat slab fronts; and be held together with dovetail, mortise-and-tenon, or butt joints.
Dovetail Mortise-and-Tenon Butt joint
Glue holds the parts together, though staples or brads are typically used to hold the joints together until the glue has cured. Dovetail joints provide the most strength.
SLIDES
Your options for drawer slides include:
Full extension, Ball bearing, Track and roller, Wood
Self closing
Full-extension slides attach to the bottom or the sides of the drawer and provide full access to the drawer interior. Their ball-bearing system adds stability and strength. Stronger versions can be used to store heavier items, such as files or cookware.
Ball-bearing slides attach to the bottom of the drawer sides. Usually standard on high-end cabinets, they offer smooth, quiet operation. Their concealed runners mounted to the bottom of the drawer don’t get as dirty as those mounted on the side. They allow for a wider drawer box with a more usable interior space.
Track-and-roller slides attach to the drawer sides. Their epoxy-coated steel tracks and nylon rollers offer quiet operation but are less stable than ball-bearing ones.
Wooden slides work as slots in the drawer sides or bottoms and move the drawer along a wood runner. This option has fallen out of favor because the drawers tend to stick as the wood expands and contracts.
STOCK
Formerly known as “bare bones” cabinetry, choosing stock cabinets for your home no longer means you’re getting the bare minimum. While prices largely remain tailored for the budget-conscious, stock manufacturers are now offering luxurious options previously exclusive to custom.
The Basics
Stock cabinets are constructed prior to purchase; because the manufacturer is not building to your unique specifications, all sizes meet industry standards. Stock cabinetry widths begin at 9 inches and increase in 3” increments to 48” (the largest standard stock size available). Some stock companies also offer half-sized cabinets (13 ½”, 19 ½”, etc.). To accommodate sizes outside of the 3-inch increments, filler strips close any gaps between the cabinet and the wall or an appliance.
Expect limited wood species, door styles and finish selections. However, to counteract the lack of available modifications, the woods, door styles, and finishes that manufacturers choose tend to be the most popular; don’t think that purchasing stock means settling for an outdated cabinet!
Check out what you’re getting beyond the cabinet. The manufacturer should offer a good warranty that can be extended or transferred to the end-user if you plan to sell. Also, make sure that touch-up and repair materials accompany your shipment or can be easily ordered.
Stored in the manufacturer’s warehouse, stock cabinets are usually available within one week of being ordered.
Pros:
- Usually available within one week
- Lower cost
Cons:
- Limited number of cabinet sizes to choose from
- Generally, no modifications are permitted
- Wasted space due to fillers
SEMI-CUSTOM
Flexibility is the name of the game when it comes to semi-custom cabinets. Partly stock, partly custom, you may not be able to let your imagination run wild, but you can certainly take it out for a spin. Expect all of the offerings of stock cabinetry with less of the limitations.
The Basics
A step up from stock, semi-custom cabinets also typically come in 3” increments but have the ability to incorporate certain custom aspects, such as increased and reduced depths.
Semi-custom cabinets have greater door, finish, and wood selections than stock.
Construction begins when order is finalized, so modifications can be made as the cabinets are somewhat built to suit. Budget at least one month for delivery into your schedule.
Pros:
- Offer many custom features at less-than-custom prices
Cons:
- Wasted space due to fillers
- Certain limitations apply
CUSTOM
Custom cabinets are restricted by only one thing—your wallet!
Basics
Within the limits of sound construction, the sky’s the limit when it comes to the design and style possibilities of custom cabinetry.
There tend to be two kinds of custom cabinets: those made by a custom manufacturer (such as Omega) and those made by a local “custom” woodworking shop. Local cabinetmakers produce the box, frame, and drawers in their shop. They will either fabricate the doors or order them from a company.
Another point to consider when going with a local producer is the finish. Make sure to inquire about the finish process. To properly protect the doors, your cabinet’s finish should include a moisture resistant sealant, catalytic conversion varnish, and baked on coats.
Custom manufacturers can make unfitted pieces, provide almost any finish color or door style, and fashion nearly any size cabinet you want. If you have a color you want to match, a custom cabinet shop can generate an exact equivalent.
Custom is the most flexible and most expensive of the types of cabinetry and typically takes at least 6-10 weeks to deliver.
Manufactured Custom Cabinets
Pros:
- Can match any color
- Almost no limitations
- Highest quality cabinet available
Cons:
- The most expensive type of cabinetry
- Expect a minimum 6-10 week delivery time.
Local Custom Cabinets
Pros:
- Can match any color
- Almost no limitations
- Less expensive than manufactured custom
Cons:
- Not a factory finish
- No certification process
- Quality not reliable
- Warranty not reliable
CONSTRUCTION QUALITY
A coveted fashion label (and hefty price tag) generally implies high quality. But regardless of the designer, it’s important to check that the hems are firm and the material is a notch above synthetic polyester. Cabinets work the same way. When it comes to quality, check out cabinet components that generally go unnoticed.
Ask about the:
Drawer construction: Dovetail drawers will provide the most strength
Finishing system: To properly protect the doors, your cabinet’s finish should include a moisture resistant sealant, catalytic conversion varnish, and baked on coats.
Composition of the doors
According to the Hardwood Manufacturers Association, be sure to look for the following:
Is there evidence of cracking of wood or delamination?
Are corners square with no perceptible joint separation?
Are exposed surfaces smoothly rounded with no blemishes?
Do doors align when closed?
Are hardware and handles fastened securely and aligned properly?
Are all edges smooth?
Are screws, nails and fasteners properly concealed?
Do doors and drawers open smoothly and quietly?
Are the drawers removable?
Do the cabinets have a seal certifying they have passed national standard tests ranging from impact resistance and hinge durability to the ability to withstand substances like detergents, vinegar and oil?
Is the finish smooth with no drips and bubbles?
WARRANTIES
Your cabinet doors swing open like a dream today—but what about tomorrow? Safeguard your investment by choosing a manufacturer that offers a solid warranty.
You’ll be ahead of the game if you know the terms of the following typical warranties. Most manufacturers offer different warranties for the cabinetry and the drawer suspension system and hinges:
Limited Lifetime
Ensures that the drawer, drawer guides and hinges will be free from defects in material and workmanship after normal use, for as long as the original purchaser owns the home.
Five-Year Limited
Cabinets will be free in defects from material and workmanship under normal use to the original consumer for a period of five years from the date of purchase.
General
If the cabinetry fails during the predetermined warranty period due to normal use, the manufacturer will repair the defect or provide replacement parts.
Limitations may still apply. Many manufacturers stipulate that the warranty only extends to single-family, non-rental homes and does not cover damage from misuse, abuse, neglect, improper storage, defects caused by installation/storage/transportation, moisture and heat.
If defects occur, the manufacturer has the option to either repair or replace the defective material or component at its discretion. The warranty only covers parts and materials, not the cost of installation or removal.
Natural factors will alter the cabinets over time; the manufacturer is not responsible for exact color matching.
Check to see if the warranty extends to the end-user: this could be valuable if you’re planning on selling you home in the near future.
Be sure to keep all warranty information in one folder in a safe place. Understand the terms of your warranty clearly: some warranties go into effect on the day the cabinets were purchased; others use delivery and installation as starting points. Also check to see if purchasing an extended warranty is an option.
KCMA
The Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA) sponsors the nationally-recognized testing program for cabinets, ANSI/KCMA A161.1, Performance & Construction Standard for Kitchen & Vanity Cabinets. That’s a mouthful, but knowing what it stands for can definitely pay off.
According to the KCMA, “Cabinets that comply and bear the KCMA certification seal are recognized in the marketplace as a quality product able to perform after a rigorous battery of tests simulating years of typical household use.”
The KCMA tests create, in accelerated form, the cumulative effects of years of normal kitchen conditions. When you purchase a cabinet with the KCMA seal, know that your cabinets have passed the following tests:
Doors are properly aligned and close without excessive binding or looseness.
All wood parts were dried to a moisture content of 10 percent or less at the time of fabrication.
Cabinets are suitable for use in kitchens and bathrooms, withstanding exposure to grease, solvents, water, detergent and steam.
Mounted wall cabinets were gradually loaded to 500 pounds without visible signs of failure in the cabinet or the mounting system.
All shelves and bottoms were loaded at 15 pounds per sq. ft. and maintained for seven days to check for joint separation and bending.
Drawers were loaded at 15 pounds per sq. ft. and opened and closed 25,000 times to ensure proper drawer assembly and operation.
To ensure tight and proper connection of doors, door-holding devices and hinges, doors are opened and closed through a full 90-degree swing 25,000 times.
The cabinet door has been placed in a hotbox at 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 70 percent relative humidity for 24 hours to test the finish for discoloration, blistering and film failures.
To ensure kitchen and bath durability, exposed surfaces were subjected to vinegar, lemon, orange and grape juices, ketchup, coffee, olive oil and 100-proof alcohol for 24 hours (and mustard for one hour). The finish did not show appreciable discoloration or stain that would not disperse with ordinary polishing.
Environmental Stewardship
Improve your home. Help protect the environment. The KCMA Environmental Stewardship Program (ESP) lets you do both.
Wherever you turn these days, you will find products that aim to be “green.” With so many environmental programs out there, it can be difficult to make sense of them all. ESP holds the cabinet industry to higher standards than other environmental programs because of its holistic approach to manufacturing, examining the process from growth and harvesting of raw materials to manufacturing the end product.
Whenever you buy kitchen, bathroom, and other cabinets with KCMA’s ESP seal, you can be assured that you’re doing your part to protect the environment.
In 2006, KCMA created ESP to help cabinet manufacturers demonstrate their commitment to environmental sustainability and help consumers easily identify environmentally friendly products. After meeting certification requirements in the areas of air quality, product and process resource management, environmental stewardship, and community relations, cabinet manufacturers can display the ESP seal on their products. The ESP seal helps you identify cabinets and cabinet manufacturers who are committed to protecting the environment. More than 130 cabinet manufacturers and brands already have earned ESP certification and more are on their way to completing the review process.
When you buy ESP certified cabinets you can be confident you are making the right choice for the environment and your family. You can take comfort in the fact that the manufacturer of your cabinets is committed to environmental responsibility. By purchasing ESP certified cabinets you are doing your part to support the environment and build an environmentally-friendly home.
RESOURCES
Cabinets.com – informational website
www.cabinets.com
National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA)
www.nkba.com
Environmental Stewardship Program
www.greencabinetsource.org
Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA)
www.kcma.org
MasterBrand Cabinets
www.masterbrand.com
TrueSource Cabinets
www.truesourcecabinets.com
